The Great Sierra Madre Horse Trip
Horse Packing In The Remote Mountains And Canyons of Mexico's Wild West...

9 days 2006 October 21 to 29 $1795

From high in the Sierra Madre, we drop steeply down into the Copper Canyon system of great remote barrancas, explore ancient cliff dwelings and visit remote Tarahumara ranchos. Following seldom used rugged trails, we travel through some of the wildest terrain on earth. Mexico’s living old west... a wild, crazy adventure...

Day 1) Meet at the airport Quality Inn in El Paso at 7:00 am. (meet over breakfast). We drive through the Chihuahua desert then over a scenic mountain highway to overnight at Cuauhtemoc. Be prepared to listen perhaps to the complete history of the Mexican revolution if Gary Ziegler is driving or to endless adventure stories if Amy Finger is along. Bring a good book. Maybe you can hide in the back of the van! We lodge at Los Cumbres, a very comfortable three star, Santa Fe style motel on the hill overlooking the town. A short walk takes us into El Centro to change money, and perhaps buy a pair of chaps or boots in one of the several ranch stores. We share margaritas and Dos Equis while enjoying good local beef ( they serve frijoles, chiles rellenos and other vegie fare for non-carnivores) and pleasant conversation at El Rancho Viejo, a favorite eatery.

Day 2) Leisurely breakfast and morning coffee behind us, we head westward across the high savanna plain toward the pine/oak forested foothills of the Sierra Madre. Soon the narrow paved roadway winds up, then down past towering andesite cliffs into the immense west facing escarpment that hosts the great arroyos and rivers of the famous Copper Canyon. We reach the small village of Arepunapuchic by
early afternoon.

Established comfortably in several of the cabins of the Mancinas famlly lodge at the canyon rim, we have time to hike and explore. A short trail leads to a cliff top overlooking North America’s great Copper Canyon known here as the Barranca del Urique. We stare in silent awe at the deep gorge and river some 5000 feet below. Gary, if he’s along, likes to run the winding trail along the rim before dinner. (so he can enjoy an evening margarita or two without guilt). Some may be crazy enough to join him. We regroup for evening refreshments with our hosts around the chimenera (fireplace). Later, we enjoy the first of many home cooked Mexican meals before a quiet night’s rest.

Day 3) Fueled by huevos rancheros, we pull our hats down tight, throw down a last cup of cowboy coffee then head down to the corrals to select a sure footed caballo from the milling remuda of mountain horses eagerly munching flakes of alfalfa.

The morning moves quickly, we saddle, pull the latigo up tight, adjust stirrup leathers and take a trial spin around the campo. Ponies pushing into the bits, we trot off on a winding trail across the vast expanse of the Sierra. Following trails along the canyon rim we soon get to know our surefooted mounts while absorbing awesome vistas of the great barranca. The evening finds us pleasantly tired, relaxing about the lodge as the home chef, Lola whips up another Mexican specialty dinner.

Day 4) The crew is up early, pack burros carefully loaded with balanced, weighed loads. The aroma of fresh coffee drifts with the cool morning air. Breakfast...tortillas, beans and chile laced scrambled eggs simmer on the grill. Soon we are mounted, bouncing along a rocky trial leading down toward the distant Barranca del Oteros.

This is a big day! Leaving the high sierra, we descend into the depths of the Orteros Canyon, one of the several great tributaries that flow into the Rio Urique to make up the Barranca del Cobre, Copper Canyon. We ride past an isolated homestead, surrounded by rock spires above dark pines and bright red madron trees. We later return here to camp. We pass through one of several remote Tarahumara communities scattered throughout the sierra. Quida Ba (hello)…we stop to visit with several men who have walked out to greet us, friends of our crew. Prepared for our arrival, they are not concerned about a bunch of gabacho riders invading their rancho. We then descend into the remote Chuachuique canyon, dubbed Mushroom Valley for all the balanced rock pinnacles. The trail is rocky and challenging. We continue, amazed and confident of our surefooted ponies, to lunch underneath incredible rock escarpments leading down into the deep Oteros. Returning to camp, now set up by our wranglers, we enjoy Teresa’s campfire grilled chuletas and fresh guacamole around the roaring, oak fueled campfire.

Day 5) Crossing over into the Batochique canyon we descend to find a camp with a sandy beach along side the Oteros River. Midway, we explore rock art drawn in red against white rhyolite, speculating, about the lost artists. Were they inspired by ancient, long forgoten Mogollon people? The last half mile to camp requires walking as the gorge deepens. We dismount and lead our horses along narrow, slick rock tracks and ledges. These are not cliff edges but experience dictates caution! The sun is still shining on the river when we arrive. All rush to the deep green pools to bathe. We settle in to a near-gourmet meal of chiles rellenos and fresh tortillas. Colorful acorn woodpeckers and Jays dart through tall pine trees, squawking displeasure at this interruption of canyon solitude. Sparks leap from the glowing embers. Shadows flicker ominously about the tall stands of long needled pines as we hunker down around the fire, cups in hand. Was it here perhaps that General George Crook cornered Geronimo and his band of marauding Apaches in the summer of 1883? Could this be where Pershing’s army corps chased Pancho Villa’s rag tag bandits fleeing from the attack on Columbus New Mexico in 1916? Heads full of mysteries and legend, we slip off to our bedrolls as a distant owl hoots a forlorn cry. Or...could it be the ghost of Coronado still searching for lost cities of gold ?

Day 6) We move on down river. The route is steep, winding up, down and around cliffs, boulders and arroyos. We sent a trail crew down here to improve a route for horses but it is still barely passable. We dismount, allowing the horses to scramble up and down bad spots on their own. The trail climbs up to a magnificent view point up and down the Oteros. We gain a little more altitude and then it’s a pleasant ride through the ancient oaks and pines towards our destination, the local Tarahumara Governor’s rancho, Siquiriche. Senor Governor Guadalupe (Lupe) is waiting for us, greeting our arrival..

Everyone is inspired by the setting. Thousand foot high cliffs surrounding the houses and ancient church on a raised plateau above the corn fields, something most special. Timidly Lupe's teen age, beautiful daughter emerges along with his wife and son. They have a young baby. Lupe may ask if we want to see the matachine and pascual dancers after our afternoon ride out to another view point where his ancient mother lives. Our stay here is very important to them. We pay for trail clearing and firewood and his wife makes baskets for sale. Lupe, an excellent violin maker prepares for our arrival with several new violins . Our night here in this beautiful box canyon is an unforgettable experience for all.

Day 7) We awake to a cold clear morning, frost coats the tent tops, making nearby clumps of bunch grass looks like decorative white bouquets. We gather around the crackling fire, coffee in hand. Soon the sun arrives, quickly warming the camp to comfortable day time temperature. Today is a long wonderful ride up the Recayna Canyon. We are struck by the beauty and remoteness of this place, amazed that people still live so far from our modern world. As John Wayne would say "daylight’s a burning", although tired from the long day, the horses eagerly push against the bit into a trot, sensing that the end of the journey is near. Clean sheets, hot showers, alfalfa for the ponies and a batch of fresh margaritas greet the journey’s end.

Day 8) Back in the dust covered van, we bounce along as Lyle Lovett and Ian Tyson’s Cowboy ballads blare out of the speakers. We strike out for El Paso. The scenery is striking and lonely, vast high land plains punctuated abruptly by steep isolated volcanic peaks. Rolling on, we hit the major four lane leading from Chihuahua to Ciudad Juarez, Some of us read or quietly visit. Relaxed, thinking about home, jobs, projects to return to, we cross the boarder into late afternoon traffic and congestion of El Paso. We snack on the drive back then of course, cover the cost of your room at the Quality Inn. Someone asks " when’s the next trip? How about peru?"

Day 9) The Quality Inn courtesy van delivers us to nearby El Paso airport for the flight home. If they don't lose the luggage and cancel the flight we may soon be back to another life, hopefully renewed. Recharged and positive from a fantasy escape into a forgotten way of life.

Optional Los Mochis Ending (add $125 to trip price):

Day 8) We’ll begin by spoiling ourselves with a leisurely breakfast of huevos rancheros, fruit, biscuits and coffee.We’ll pack our gear and say our goodbyes. We’ll have some time for shopping before we board the afternoon train. Parting ways from the guides who return the van to El Paso, you’ll continue on unescorted. You needn’t worry! you are met at the train station in Los Mochis, delivered to the Santa Anita Hotel and also to the airport the following day. The trip through the Sierra Madre to the coastal plain is considered one of the most spectacular train rides in the Americas. As the train winds through dozens of tunnels and over countless bridges, you’ll be treated to an instant replay of our trek into the canyons. Arriving that evening in Los Mochis, you’ll be met at the depot and driven to the deluxe Santa Anita hotel. Dinner is on your own—We suggest you sample the fresh red snapper and shrimp cocktails at one of the excellent seafood restaurants near the hotel.

Day 9) The next morning you are driven from the hotel to the airport. There are convenient flights from Los Mochis to gateway cities in the American west and southwest.

Note: this is a sample itinerary. We may make day to day changes as we ride and explore. Come prepared for a flexible expedition experience.

Details and Local Color

The region from Creel to Los Mochis is widely promoted as the "Copper Canyon". In fact, the northern Sierra Madre embraces 15 major canyon systems (barrancas) within an area of 75,000 square kilometers. Seven of these canyons are considered "most notable". Our trip takes in two of these: the Urique and Oteros

Wildlife: Unlike the heavily hunted and foraged main Copper Canyon region, wildlife can still be found in the mountains and canyons of the Oteros. This includes black bear, cougar, bobcats, small jaguar, macaws, eared trogons, parrots, deer, peccaries, nutria, rainbow trout, quail, golden eagles and other small species.

It is also interesting to note that this area was held under almost constant siege by the Apaches for well over a century. When the explorer Carl Lumholtz trekked through over a hundred years ago, he found that memories of the Apache terror were still quite fresh.

Suitability:
This is a rugged, physically demanding adventure. Although the horses are "no nonsense" and well trained, you must be in good physical condition. Although you do not need to be an expert rider we require that you have some prior experience and are comfortable around horses. Rider weight is restricted to 200 lbs. We do not spend long hours in the saddle but days are filled as we must hike some steep or dangerous sections. Be prepared to cheerfully accept the unplanned and unexpected. Although the guides and Mexican staff are the best, remote travel in the Sierra Madre has risk. This is the real thing...comparable to traveling through the Rocky Mountains in the 1880s. Only the adventurous should consider this trip. PLEASE COME PREPARED FOR THE UNEXPECTED AND CHANGES IN THE ITINERARY.

WEATHER These trips are scheduled during the dry, cool winter season in the Sierra Madre. Temperatures are in the 60's and 70's (nights 30's-40’s). On rare occasions, storm systems can affect this area and can cause freezing temperatures and snow.

DOCUMENTS- Proof of citizenship is needed in the form of a passport (preferable), or official birth certificate from the courthouse with seal (not from the hospital with your feet) accompanied by picture I.D.

MEETING TIME AND PLACE: Time: 7 am on the morning of departure. Please leave your bags in your room and we will breakfast together. Place: Quality Inn and Suites, 6099 Montana Ave, El Paso , TX 79925, 915-772-3300. Specify you are an Adventure Specialists client and receive our special rate of $45 (good for one to four in a room). They offer free airport pick up from 8am-midnight. Vehicles may be parked here during the trip.

RESERVATIONS -719-783-2076 (May-Nov) 719-630-7195 (Dec-Apr) gets you in touch with the Adventure Specialists staff, Bear Basin Ranch Westcliffe, CO 81252, info@adventurespecialist.org
AIR: We recommend Earl Fox at Taylor Travel, Colorado Springs: 800/530-8828; or for international calls: 719/636-3871; fax: 719/636-3879; e-mail: efox@taylortravel.net

WHAT’S INCLUDED: Round trip transport from El Paso by van, all lodging, camp, tents and cook, guides/wranglers, meals except as noted below, horses, tack and saddle bags.

EXCLUSIONS - Costs resulting from illness or injury and emergency evacuation, program changes and delays beyond our control, meals in Cuauhtemoc and Creel, items listed on the equipment list, tips for trip and hotel staff.

Trip leaders: Gary Ziegler and/or Amy Finger -. Gary and Amy combine extensive outdoor experience to make Adventure Specialists a successful, unique operation. Gary's background includes a Ph.D. in archaeology, discovery of important new archaeological sites in remote Peru and Mexico, first ascents of seven Andean peaks above 18,000 ft and extensive exploration of the Sierra Madre mountains in Mexico, He guides horse pack trips in his native Colorado and Peru. Sponsored by Western Horseman Magazine, Gary and a friend traveled weeks on horse back from Chihuahua, through the Sierra Madre and Copper Canyon some years ago. He currently is president of the local home Colorado team penning club and serves as the volunteer commander of the sheriff's mounted horse patrol.
Amy has led more than one hundred groups into Mexico’s rugged Copper Canyon since 1980 and countless more in Colorado, Spain and Peru. Amy's degrees in geology, climatology and her studies of flora and ecology strongly influence our emphasis on natural history and environmental awareness. Gary, Amy and staff operate 4000 acre Bear Basin Ranch in southern Colorado with a herd of more than sixty horses and assorted long horn Cows. Amy puts the handle on young horses while Gary works on cow, trail and police horse training.

CAMPS: We make our camps as comfortable as possible with seats, weather tight, roomy four person tents (one or two persons to a tent) and a large kitchen/dinning tarp. A small private tent with indoor seat serves as the camp latrine . Showers and/or heated water is available daily for personal cleanup.

EQUIPMENT AND PREPARATION LIST:
__Passport __Credit cards and cash for tips, city meals, shopping etc.__Airline tickets.__Travel Insurance to include emergency medical, trip cancellation etc. Available any travel agency.__Duffle bag or large frameless pack for the majority of your gear.__Plastic garbage bags to line duffle for waterproofing on the trail.____Warm Sleeping Bag (to 20+ F) __sleeping pad.__Leisure clothing for town._hiking boots (some are okay for riding as long as they are not too wide) We use our hiking boots along with a pair of half chaps which makes for a practical combination for both riding and walking.

Good half chaps are available at: http://www.statelinetack.com for $45-$75. We also like chaps/chinks __Warm outer coat or shell jacket and polar fleece type pullovers for layering__Rain gear; pants/slicker.__Hat with a Brim...essential for sun protection.__several bandanas.__Warm cap and gloves __light riding gloves__Assortment of light expedition clothes. pants, shirts, socks, underwear, trail shorts.__Toiletries...biodegradable soap, sun block (#30 or more) lip balm & personal items__Insect Repellant__Personal medications...__Water Purification Kit-iodine or filter for hotels etc. We boil camp and trail water__Sun Glasses.....__Flashlight...with extra bulb and batteries- We like headlamps.__Pocket knife.__Water Bottle__Camera and film. __ mild spurs __

HEALTH: We ask that you consult your family doctor concerning what medications, shots or inoculations he or she may recommend. You will probably not be exposed to tropical diseases such as malaria and yellow fever. The occasional case of traveler’s diarrhea can be rapidly treated with Cipro or other medication that your doctor may suggest. We have a very low incidence of illness on our trips. We eat in only the best restaurants and our own cooks are carefully sanitation trained.

READING LIST:
1) Franz, Carl People’s Guide to Mexico
2) Lumhotz, Carl Unknown Mexico
3) Schwatka, Frederick In the Land of the Cliff Dwellers
4) Bennett & Zing The Tarahumara
5) Kennedy, John G. Tara humara of the Sierra Madre
6) Fontana, Bernard Tarahumara: Where Night is the Day of the Moon
7) Fisher, Richard Mexico’s Copper Canyon
8) Shepard, Grant The Silver Magnet
9) Villasenor, Victor Rain of Gold.
10) Ziegler, Gary Discovery and Adventure; Copper Canyon

Pack your gear into your duffel. Your duffel bag will not be available during the day on the pack horses. Your saddle bags should hold rain gear, water bottle, and other items you will want during the day. Line the duffel with a garbage bag. Please remember that space is limited so cover all the eventualities but do not bring many different pairs of items. The most important thing to bring is your cheerful acceptance of whatever surprises the adventure may hold in store!

BACK